On rebuilding the carrot course
We've been running the smoked-yolk carrot since Service 008. Tomorrow it gets a hay-infused jus instead of dashi — closer to the soil it grew in. The dish is the same dish, two months on; the season is what changed.
Sarah Lin opened Brassica in 2018, after eight years between Saison, Aska, and Frantzén. The bill of fare carries her name. Everything about how it’s written, however, is a kitchen decision — made between Sarah and her two sous-chefs every morning at 9:30, after the farms have called in.
Joined the line at 22, three months after Saison opened above an art gallery in the Mission. Worked through every station; left as senior sous-chef when Saison moved to its current South of Market room.
A short stage. Worked the foraging program, ran the bread station for six months. Aska closed and reopened in a new format during the year — Sarah was on the original line.
Three years on the Frantzén line. Worked the entire menu by year two; ran the pass on Tuesdays through year three. Returned to San Francisco in late 2017 to plan Brassica.
Opened the room with a 24-seat bill, Wednesday-Friday. Expanded to 28 seats and Saturday service in 2020. Earned a first Michelin star in 2024 and held it in 2025.
The Brassica team has held its current shape since 2022. Sous-chefs Mei and Daniel both came from rooms with stronger product than Brassica had at the time; Anya built the cellar over four years; Jordan runs the front-of-house with two regular floor staff. Twenty-eight seats, four nights, five names.
On the pass every service. Designs the bill of fare with sous-chefs Mei and Daniel, in dialogue with the morning's deliveries.
Joined Brassica in 2020 from Single Thread (Healdsburg). Runs the line, owns the cold side. Quietly the better baker.
Joined Brassica in 2022 from Atomix (NYC). Runs the hot side, manages the meat program. The kitchen's most disciplined plater.
Built the cellar from scratch in 2018. Pairs the day of service. Sole sommelier on the floor; has not taken a Saturday off since 2020.
Runs the front-of-house, the deposit calendar, the dietary intake. Has spoken on the phone with every guest who's eaten here twice.
Sarah keeps a public notebook — short entries, written in the office between services, on what changed and why. Below, three recent entries. The full archive is in the printed program at the table.
We've been running the smoked-yolk carrot since Service 008. Tomorrow it gets a hay-infused jus instead of dashi — closer to the soil it grew in. The dish is the same dish, two months on; the season is what changed.
We tried eight pours for one season in 2021. Four of them disappeared off the table — guests stopped tasting after the fourth. Six is what the room can hold attention for.
I get asked weekly if we'd consider a vegetable-only tasting menu. The answer is: that's already what we run. The wagyu is a single course out of nine; six of nine are vegetable-led.

