The journal
Growing it out is still a haircut
The grow-out fails in the chair you stopped sitting in. A cutting specialist on trim math, the fringe exit plan, and when to admit the in-between needs a shape of its own.
Élodie Marchand · Cutting Specialist, Master Stylist · July 9, 2026 · 5 min read
The awkward phase is a scheduling problem
Nobody grows out a bob by ignoring it. Hair doesn't lengthen evenly — the perimeter goes ragged, the interior collapses, and by month four you're wearing a shape nobody chose. The guests who grow hair out gracefully keep their appointments; we just change what happens in them.
A grow-out trim isn't the trim you're afraid of. We leave the length strictly alone and clean the corners that make in-between hair read as unfinished — the flip at the nape, the shelf where the old layers sit. Fifteen minutes of tidying buys you eight weeks of looking deliberate.
Trim math, honestly
How often you actually need scissors depends on what you're keeping, not on a rule someone printed in 2004. My honest schedule:
- Keeping a bob or fringe sharp: every 6–8 weeks
- Growing out length, hair in good condition: every 12–16 weeks, dusting only
- Growing out with regular heat styling: every 10 weeks — splits travel faster than growth
The fringe exit plan
A fringe leaves the party slowly, and the difference between charming and 'growing out my fringe, sorry' is whether it was cut to leave. Around eyebrow length we soften it into curtain pieces; by cheekbone it becomes the shortest layer around the face. Two small blends and no clip-back phase — the exit is built into the cut, which is why I ask about your five-month plan before I cut day one.
When to call it
Sometimes the kindest thing I can say at a grow-out consultation is: this middle stage wants to be its own haircut. A soft shag or a longer bob can hold the line for six months, use every centimetre you've grown, and still be on the way to the long hair you're after. Passing through a good haircut is not a detour — wearing eight months of no-shape is.